A look at leaf blower vacuum for Autumn preparation

A look at leaf blower vacuum for Autumn preparation

If there’s one thing that I will prepare for next Autumn it would be to get myself a leaf blower. The amount of damage leaves can do around the garden is just incredible when so as a result leaf blowers are top of my list in terms of what needs preparing for this Autumn.
Overall I can’t think of a better way to go through the summer than to get ready for Autumn as well. Especially seeing as the gardens in full bloom now and it’s looking really amazing. I really don’t want to lose the quality of lawn I’ve got at the moment and I think that a leaf blowers going to be the way that I get things sorted.

You need a leaf blower vac for Autumn because leaves are a nightmare and will kill the grass.

There really is nothing worse than leaves laying on the grass and causing not only no sunlight and photosynthesis to the grass but actually causing grass itself to rot. This has a knock-on effect on any glass around to the local area will also be affected. It can result in needing to completely re-turf the lawn and at the very minimum putting down an awful lot seed and having a really patchy an ugly looking lawn so a step in a stitch in time saves nine; make sure the leaves are not allowed to gather on the lawn.

Electric cordless leaf blower vacuums

With all of the technological advances the obvious thing to do is have an electric cordless leaf blower because they’re extremely lightweight and extremely easy to use as well. It means they don’t have to have a power lead and you can save an awful lot of time and it’s a lot safer because the power that goes through an electric cordless leaf blower is low voltage and as a result it means that you’re unlikely to end up with electric shock.

This is extremely advantageous if you’ve got young children or perhaps even pets because the course accidents do happen and you really want to make sure that you minimise the risks. Cordless leaf blower vacs give you a least half an hour’s running time and if you’ve got a small to medium sized garden like mine where I’ve only got a three-bedroom semi house then of course it’s absolutely deal for you. If you’re looking for the best value for money cordless leaf blower vacuums then I would say that you couldn’t really go wrong with the Black and Decker.

Leaf Blower

Leaf Blower

Electric corded leaf blower vacuums

The best thing about an electric corded leaf blower is a fact that they’re extremely cheap these days. Because of the fact that there are actually quite difficult to use and cordless is coming on leaps and bounds it means the corded electric leaf blowers becoming a thing of the past. A result people are buying the farthest end of course they cost in an awful lot less more money if I can envisage the time where and electric corded leaf blower simply isn’t purchased or even made anymore because of the fact that cordless is advance so much.

Petrol leaf blowers

If you need a big powerful bit of kit then petrol leaf blowers are the way forward because it means that you can get some serious home from 50cc petrol engine. They are normally 2-stroke which means or even more powerful because of four-stroke of course isn’t quite powerful is a two-stroke. But overall, yeah if you’ve got a big project then of course a big petrol leaf blower will really get the job done

Best value for money leaf blowers vacs

As I already briefly touched on, the best value for money leaf blowers vacs are cordless because they’re actually less than 50 quid these days and a corded one might be 30 quid but of course you need then to buy a power lead which costs 20 quid as well so overall cordless electric leaf blower vacs is extremely good value for money.

Leaf blower

Leaf blower

Don’t forget: Leafs are brilliant for composting

Don’t forget to take advantage of the leaves and powered you can get yourself a blower vacuum. Some vacuums have got a mulching facility which means that you’ll be able to make compost extremely quickly. Leaves make some of the very best and richest Earth so don’t throw the way make sure you create itself a good compost pile for the next season. It will make brilliant potting after all.

So to conclude leaf blowers vacs for Autumn

In simple conclusion I would say that a petrol leaf blower vacuum is the most powerful wind and electric cordless leaf blower is by far and away the best value and easiest to use. As well as being safe these days it makes complete sense for anyone with a medium to a normal sized home. If you think you could add anything to this cordless leaf blower vacuum article then please absolutely contact me.

Fruits vertebrate pest control

Fruits vertebrate pest control

Voles, deer, and birds are the three major vertebrate pests of fruit plantings. Voles are mouse-like mammals that eat the bark and roots of young fruit trees and thornless blackberries in winter and are frequently a serious problem. Deer consume the new shoots of fruit trees. Birds damage the fruits of blueberry, cherry, gooseberry, and grape plantings.

Two different vole species cause problems: the meadow vole (which lives aboveground) and the pine vole (which lives below ground). During the spring, summer, and fall, voles eat vegetable matter and seeds. But in the winter they feed on the bark and roots of young trees, often girdling and killing them.

To assess whether or not you might have vole problems before they do damage, place half an apple under a shingle or a 1-foot-square piece of plywood in a grassy area near your trees. Check it the next day. If the apple is completely gone, you’ve got problems that need treating. If there are only a few nibbles, voles are probably present, so you should keep monitoring and consider control measures.

A good way to prevent meadow vole damage is to manage their aboveground habitat. Keep grass cut short so they have no place to hide. Keep weeds and grass cleared out around trees (about 40 percent ground coverage is OK). Don’t use straw or fabric mulches, which provide the voles with shelter. But wood chips are OK.

To protect young trees from injury, enclose the base of each trunk with a cylinder of quarter-inch hardware cloth. The cylinder should be about 8 inches in diameter. Bury the bottom shallowly in the soil, being careful not to disturb the roots. The top should be about 18 inches tall and not interfere with the lowest scaffold branch. Mound up pea gravel or mulch a few inches around the cylinder to hold it in place.

Hardware cloth cylinders are less effective with pine voles because you can’t install them deep enough to keep out these underground dwellers without damaging tree roots. Because they come aboveground to feed, keeping grass mowed and clear areas around trees helps. But other control measures may be called for.

Using poison baits in orchards can pose risks to pets and other wildlife. Box traps, “mouse hotels,” and similar control measures are surprisingly effective with voles. Try using apples for bait. Encouraging natural predators such as hawks and owls can also help keep rodent populations under control.

Deer will eat just about anything if they are hungry enough. In areas with heavy deer pressure, the most reliable method to keep them from destroying fruit plantings is to construct an 8-foot-tall fence. Several repellents also can be effective in small home plantings if they are applied and reapplied properly. Hanging a single unwrapped bar of fragrant soap from each tree or bush may discourage feeding if deer pressure is low.

Chiffchaff eating pear

Chiffchaff eating pear

Ripening fruits (especially cherries and berry crops) are frequently damaged by birds. Whether the birds are flocking or non flocking, migratory or resident, the resulting fruit injury can cause significant losses. The extent of damage varies from year to year and depends on factors such as weather conditions and food supplies.

Which bird species you can expect to damage fruit crops depends on the surrounding environment. Plantings that border forests or brush, for example, attract different bird species than plantings surrounded by open fields or croplands. Plantings located near wooded areas, where birds find shelter and nesting sites, are particularly susceptible to damage. Fruits planted in an isolated area also are vulnerable because the fruit may be the main food source for birds. Some bird species are attracted to plantings near trees or power lines. Planting grass alleyways and controlling weeds within and adjacent to the planting reduces problems with birds. Certain weed species supply food and cover to birds and attract them into the area.

In general, birds feed most heavily early in the morning and again in the late afternoon (starlings, which feed throughout the day, are an exception). Adjust your control schedule to coincide with the feeding schedules of the birds.

Several non lethal methods of bird control are available to home fruit growers. Netting is a traditional and widely used strategy that physically prevents birds from reaching fruit. It is both quiet and effective, but you must apply the netting before the birds discover the ripening fruit (the changes in colour as fruit ripens signal the birds to start feeding).

Roll the netting out over the tops of plants and secure it to a support system such as a trellis. The major disadvantages of netting are the high initial cost and the labor involved. Setting up and removing netting on a large scale can be difficult and may require specialised equipment.

Electronically recorded, species-specific distress calls are fairly expensive but effective against certain bird species. The downside is that neighbours may find them as distressing as the birds do. Before purchasing the distress calls, know which species are eating your fruits. Distress calls are most effective when supplemented with some type of visual scare device, such as one of the kite or balloon products bearing the silhouette of a hawk or owl.

Fruit Tree growing in protective net for birds

Fruit Tree growing in protective net for birds

Such visual scare devices don’t work with all species, however. The hawk kite, for example, scares away starlings, robins, and northern orioles but is not effective with mockingbirds or brown thrashers. Another limitation is local weather. Kites function best in breezy but not windy weather. Furthermore, birds get used to them very quickly and they lose their effectiveness unless supplemented with a noise device.

There are no magic solutions to controlling bird damage. Assess the extent of damage and then determine what species of bird is doing the damage. Netting is probably the most effective but most expensive physical method. Scare devices should be used early to prevent birds from establishing a feeding pattern. A combination of techniques is usually most effective.

Planting a Lilly bulb

Summer blooming

Let us share with you our love for elegance, simplicity, naturalness and tenderness. Lilies are a part of our preferences when it’s about flowers and classic flower arrangements.

Lilies are so sweet when put together, shaping a floral carpet, a beautiful floral design for your elegant-classic stylised terrace or lightened relaxing rooms.
Very important for the lily flower arrangement to be on top of your design elements is to choose the proper flower container. It has to be a quadratic clay pot with borders so that the lilies to be framed as they would be in a miniature garden.

You’ll need to purchase from a flower shop 12 red or pink lily bulbs of Lilium sp. Species (if it’s spring, but if it’s already summer, buy potted lilies just before blooming), some rubble, organic fertiliser, garden soil.

Perforate the flower pot’s base, put some rubble for a good drainage, add above an organic fertiliser layer of about 7-10 cm, then dispose the lily bulbs or the lily roots so that to cover the entire pot surface in 4 rows of 3 lilies. You can let the lily flower arrangement to alone in the flower pot or can plant on the arrangement base some Ivy to give to the lily arrangement the momentousness that it needs, because you’ll combine the two different style: pendent and right and up growth style. And this is a surprise and both a good choice if you know how to do it. Now, if you choose the joining of Ivy, after planting the lilies, put in the flower container with potting mix soil (containing also organic fertiliser), leaving about 7-8 cm till the end of the pot just to permit the Ivy root to extend. Finally, fill the pot with fertiliser manure.

lily for planting

lily for planting

The lily flower arrangement will enjoy the well ventilated but not before the wind places and you have to keep in mind that it doesn’t bear the high temperature. If you want your lilies to be healthy and in flower, keep the soil moist, but not wet. After the blooming, prune the lily stems and plant it in your home garden.

You can also replace the lilies with Lords-and-ladies (Arum maculatum), a flowering plant that loves the shady places of which flower, the spadix, is as elegant as lily flower. Our advice is to associate the cuckoo-pint flower to Trandescantia albiflora, a colorful trailing plant.

Hoping that we are giving you a good assistance in your decorating work, we want you to enjoy nature and to relax into your home.

Have you pruned your Clematis

Have you pruned your Clematis

Do you struggle knowing how or when to prune Clematis? Pruning any plant can seem like a daunting task, not too dissimilar to brain surgery actually, but it’s not all that difficult when you have a little know how.

Several Clematis grow quite happily in my garden and I find them particularly useful for catching the eye and drawing your focus vertically. This is important in my small garden as space is always at a premium. Any method at my disposal to increase impact or increase room for plants is most certainly welcomed. I particularly enjoy C. ‘Elsa Spath’ and C. ‘Madame Julia Correvone’. These grow up the boundary wall with the added support of Hazel bean poles. They continue to wind their way through an ornamental quince and finally onto a trellis panel, which is bathed in sunshine, something that Clematis really enjoy. Aside from the vertical draw that the Clematis offer, they also add interest to the otherwise green and leafy Chaenomele speciosa when its blooms have faded. Clematis love having cool shaded roots and their heads in the sun and this position at the back of a border appears to suit them very well. If you have a shrub, hedge, tree or another structure that needs some additional interest, consider using a Clematis.

At this time of year your Clematis should be coming in to bud. It is this unmissable visual cue which signals a need to prune. With the increase in daylight hours (which I think I enjoy just as much as the plants) pairs of plump buds form along stems, ready and waiting for the chemical nudge to burst and grow. By pruning just above a healthy set of buds and following the rules below you will create a new set of growing points and stems upon which your flowers will be produced.

It is worth noting that Clematis fall in to three pruning groups:

Group 1 – consisting of those that flower early in the year
Group 2 – consisting of the early large-flowering hybrids which flower in early summer
Group 3 – consisting of those which flower from midsummer onwards.

Before making the cut it is essential that you know which group your Clematis belongs to as this will dictate your practice. You can usually find this information by carrying out an online search or by asking your local nurseryman. At this time of year most groups are ready for pruning, however, the group 3 plants, such as my C. ‘Madame Julia Correvone’, will be our main point of concentration in this post as it is these late flowering species which flower on new growth. Group 2 plants, such as C. ‘Elsa Spath’ , can also be pruned in a similar fashion but this is not as essential.

planting clematis

planting clematis

Pruning has two main functions. It increases general vigour and helps to ensure a good flowering season. Like many other garden plants, Clematis appreciate an annual structural overhaul. Not only does this allow us to keep unruly plants in check and remove dead or diseased plant material, but it also reduces the opportunity for stems to overlap, form open wounds and become infected. By pruning the plant back to two strong buds on each stem, around 8-10” from the ground, we can encourage plants to flower profusely. Group three plants flower on current years growth and by pruning in this way we improve the plants overall health and help it to put its energy in to creating new healthy shoots and blooms.
I would also recommend that after pruning you apply a good feed for your plants, blood, fish and bone is ideal. I always follow this with a good layer of mulch and lots of protection from slugs, which are extremely problematic when it comes to any form of new shoot.

spring garden

Has Spring arrived yet?

Do you think that Spring has arrived yet? It’s a question that is constantly banded about at this time of year along with arguments of a late Spring or an early one and discussions on how one can identify if spring has sprung or not. It’s a bit like our constant preoccupation with the weather, in the respect that it never seems to go away. The type of discussion that seems to become ever more prevalent as you get older, as though some kind of vicarious learning experience is taking place or a natural instinct to air our feelings about muggy days or impending rains kicks in a few years post puberty. Quite frankly I’m bored of it now.

A widely recognised harbinger of Spring put pay to this lingering debate when out on a walk today. The beautiful Peacock Butterfly (Inachis io) was spotted enjoying the sunshine in nearby woodland, signalling that Spring is definitely here and that we should now concentrate our discussions on something a little bit more constructive or failing that we could just look for signs of April Showers, the Easter bunny or the hottest day of the year? Peacocks are one of our longest living butterfly species and have fared pretty well over the past couple of decades as a result of climate change. These striking creatures hibernate over Winter and then emerge from late March onwards. This peacock was right on cue and it’s likely that it emerged sometime over the past couple of days if not today. It was a very welcome site indeed, quite similar to my discovery of Vanessa atlanta late last year.

I’ve managed to spend a bit of time in the garden this weekend too, which has been quite productive and came as a welcome relief. A general tidy up of the garden has added plenty of plant material to the compost heap as has the addition of the only casualty of the Winter, a Wasingtonia filifera palm. If I’m completely honest it’s no great loss and the patch of earth it left behind was put to good use with the addition of a hazel obelisk on which I intend to grow peas and borlotti beans. The wait for my allotment plot is becoming a bit of a nightmare, although I’m reliably informed that I am number two on the list, so the garden is slowly evolving into a potager.


My first batch of compost has been a great success and I spent quite a bit of yesterday morning applying it as sumptuous mulch to the top garden borders. It will help suppress weeds, insulate the soil and retain much needed moisture. Many of my plants are in a hurry to grow and are pushing up through the newly warmed soil, this mulch should aid them as the season progresses. Several Clematis race away and require a little string as forced support to help them on their ramble, on top of what’s in already planted, I have also added a Clematis tangutica. This plant was a gift, which has lived in a pot outside my front door for the last two years and was in need of a more permanent spot.

I just hope the impending cold weather and possible snow, forecast for this week, does not destroy the new growth. I guess old habits die hard?

Springtime with flowers, bees and hoverflies

The obligatory daffodil post with added hoverfly stalking. Spring was heralded with the sounding of trumpets and a most wonderous fanfare could be heard throughout the land. Of course I’m referring to the mighty Daffodil and in this case my Narcissus pseudonarcissus. Saturday brought the vernal equinox, the point where days become equal as hours of light and dark balance out and this is when Spring is said to begin. At least that’s the theory anyway. Along with us reaching this annual milestone four daffodils opened and their timing could not have been better. Okay, they’re a little late but as we are all aware the propensity for daffodils to bloom has been somewhat lackadaisical.

colourful meadow

Given the winter conditions we’ve just come through you can’t blame them for that really. It was a very welcome sight indeed but it appears that one of the blooms had opened and gone unnoticed, hidden behind a box ball probably a few days earlier as when I discovered it’s petals had already faded.

In the garden my snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) and witch hazel (Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Pallida’) have given way to the daffodils, anemones (Anemone blanda), various hellebores (Helleborus foetidus, H. x hybridus, H. niger) and lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis), much to the relief of the insects that call my garden home. Many bees and hoverflies could be seen buzzing about and one ever-clumsy shield bug was seen sunning itself on the leaf of foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) prior to probably flying in to windows, walls and unsuspecting people. I managed to get a couple of shots of the hoverfly enjoying the nectar of garden favourite of mine, Helleborus foetidus, and an Anemone blanda flower.